How did Anglo-Saxon embroidery reflect power dynamics within their society?

Anglo-Saxon embroidery served as a potent visual signifier of power, reflecting both secular and sacred authority. It was employed to create, confirm, and strengthen hierarchical structures within society. This manifested in several ways.

Firstly, the materials themselves communicated status. Silk and gold, often imported and thus expensive, were reserved for high-ranking individuals and ecclesiastical use. The author writes, "The metal threads and silk fabrics would have created a spectacle as the wearer walked through dimly lit buildings." Secondly, the craftsmanship involved in embroidery signalled power. The meticulous stitching, complex designs, and time-consuming production process underscored the wealth and resources of those who commissioned such pieces. As the author notes, the labor-intensive nature of embroidery "would have underpinned and cemented the power and authority of the Church."

Thirdly, design and iconography reinforced societal hierarchies. Ecclesiastical embroideries, for example, often depicted religious figures, reinforcing the Church's spiritual authority. Secular embroideries, with their intricate knotwork and animal motifs, could have served as symbols of lineage, tribal affiliation, or military prowess. The author uses St. Boniface's letter mentioning dress ornaments "embroidered with the widest of borders, decorated with images of worms" as possible symbolic of the wearer's rank. By wearing or displaying elaborate embroideries, individuals projected an image of wealth, authority, and cultural sophistication, thus solidifying their position within the social order.